How to Changing Fat Tires on Your Tamobyke

Why Fat Tire Maintenance Matters

Fat tires are the foundation of your Tamobyke riding experience, providing the exceptional stability, comfort, and off-road capability that make our e-bikes stand out from the competition. However, even the most durable fat tires eventually need replacement, whether due to wear, punctures, or simply upgrading to better performance options.

Many riders are intimidated by the prospect of changing fat tires, which can be more challenging than standard bicycle tires due to their width and stiff sidewalls. But with the right tools and technique, you can confidently tackle this maintenance task at home, saving time and money while ensuring your Tamobyke continues to deliver the premium riding experience you expect.

In this comprehensive guide, we'll walk you through the complete process of changing fat tires on your Tamobyke, covering both tubed and tubeless setups, essential tools, step-by-step instructions, and expert tips to make the process smoother.

Tubed vs. Tubeless: Understanding Your Options

Before diving into the tire-changing process, it's important to understand the difference between tubed and tubeless fat tire setups, as the installation process varies slightly between them.

Tubed Fat Tires

The traditional setup consists of an inner tube inside the tire that holds the air. This is the setup that comes standard on most Tamobyke models. Tubed setups are:

• Easier to install initially
• Simpler to repair on the trail with basic tools
• More affordable upfront
• Familiar to most riders

However, tubed setups are more susceptible to pinch flats (when the tube gets pinched between the tire and rim) and typically require higher tire pressures to avoid this issue.

Tubeless Fat Tires

Tubeless setups eliminate the inner tube, using liquid sealant to create an airtight seal between the tire and rim. While not standard on all Tamobyke models, tubeless conversion is a popular upgrade for more serious riders. Tubeless setups offer:

• Ability to run lower tire pressures (as low as 3-8 PSI) for better traction and comfort
• Significantly reduced risk of flats due to self-sealing properties
• Lower rolling resistance at low pressures
• Weight savings of up to 500 grams per wheel

Converting to tubeless can reduce rolling resistance by nearly 10 watts per tire at very low pressures (around 6 PSI), providing both performance and comfort benefits. If you're considering going tubeless, check out our Tamobyke Tubeless Conversion Guide.

Essential Tools for Changing Fat Bike Tires

Having the right tools makes all the difference when tackling fat tire changes. Here's what you'll need:

For Both Tubed and Tubeless Setups:

• Sturdy tire levers (2-3): Regular bike tire levers may not be strong enough for fat tires, so invest in heavy-duty levers specifically designed for fat bikes
• Floor pump with pressure gauge: Fat tires require precise low-pressure settings
• Wrench set: For removing axle nuts if your Tamobyke doesn't have quick-release skewers
• Clean rags: For wiping down rims and handling messy sealant
• Valve core remover: To remove valve cores when adding sealant (tubeless) or deflating completely (tubes)

Additional Tools for Tubeless Setups:

• Tubeless sealant: 4-6oz per tire is recommended for fat tires
• Sealant injector or syringe: For adding sealant through the valve
• Tubeless-specific rim tape: If you're converting to tubeless
• Tubeless valves: If you're converting to tubeless
• Air compressor or high-volume pump: Fat tires often need a strong burst of air to seat properly

Step-by-Step Guide: Changing Tubed Fat Tires

Let's walk through the complete process of changing a tube-type fat tire on your Tamobyke:

1. Remove the Wheel from Your Tamobyke

• Shift the chain to the smallest cog (for rear wheel) to make removal easier
• For electric bikes with hub motors, carefully disconnect any motor cables
• Loosen the axle nuts or quick-release skewer
• For rear wheels, pull back on the derailleur to create slack in the chain
• Lift the wheel straight out of the dropouts

Pro Tip: If removing the rear wheel, take a quick photo of how the chain routes through the derailleur before removal to make reinstallation easier.

2. Fully Deflate the Tire

• Remove the valve cap
• Use the pointed end of your valve core tool to press down on the valve core and release all the air
• For Presta valves, unscrew the valve first, then press to release air

3. Break the Bead

Fat tires have beads (the tire edges) that sit firmly in the rim's bead seat. Breaking this connection is often the most challenging part of the process.

• Press the tire sidewalls toward the center of the rim all the way around both sides of the wheel
• Use your body weight by placing the wheel on the ground and pressing down with your palms
• Work your way around the tire, compressing both sides toward the center

Pro Tip: If the bead is stubborn, try using the heel of your foot to apply more force, or squeeze the opposite side of the tire to create slack.

4. Remove One Side of the Tire

• Insert a tire lever under the bead near the valve
• Pry the bead over the rim edge
• Hook the lever on a spoke to hold it in place
• Insert a second lever about 4 inches away and repeat
• Work your way around the tire until one side is completely removed

Pro Tip: For particularly tight fat tires, you may need three levers working in sequence, leaving each hooked as you move to the next section.

5. Remove the Inner Tube

• Pull the valve stem through the rim first
• Carefully pull out the rest of the tube
• Inspect the inside of the tire for any objects that may have caused a puncture

6. Inspect the Rim Strip

• Ensure the rim strip (the protective tape covering spoke holes) is centered and undamaged
• Replace if torn or shifting, as exposed spoke holes can puncture new tubes

7. Install the New Tube

• Inflate the new tube just enough to give it shape (don't fully inflate)
• Insert the valve stem through the valve hole in the rim
• Feed the rest of the tube into the tire cavity
• Ensure the tube isn't twisted or pinched

8. Mount the Tire

• Start at the valve and work the first bead entirely onto the rim if it's not already in place
• For the second bead, start at the valve again
• Work your way around the rim, using your thumbs to push the bead over the edge
• As it gets tighter, use smaller increments and make sure the previously mounted sections sit in the center channel of the rim
• The last section may require tire levers to lift over the rim edge

Pro Tip: Leave the section opposite the valve for last, as this gives you the most slack to work with when mounting the final section.

9. Check for Pinch Points

Before inflating:

• Inspect all around both sides of the tire to ensure the tube isn't caught between the tire bead and rim
• Push the valve stem up into the tire and pull it back slightly to ensure it's not caught under the bead

10. Inflate and Seat the Tire

• Inflate to about 20 PSI initially (higher than riding pressure)
• Listen for "popping" sounds as the beads seat against the rim
• Check the bead seat line (molded into the tire sidewall) to ensure it's an even distance from the rim all the way around
• Deflate to your desired riding pressure (typically 5-15 PSI for fat tires)

11. Reinstall the Wheel

• Guide the wheel back into the frame dropouts
• For rear wheels, route the chain properly around the cassette and through the derailleur
• Tighten axle nuts or quick-release securely
• Reconnect any motor cables for electric hub motors
• Spin the wheel to ensure it rotates freely without rubbing

Tubeless Fat Tire Installation

If you're upgrading to a tubeless setup or replacing an existing tubeless tire, the process is slightly different:

1. Remove the Old Tire

Follow steps 1-4 from the tubed tire section above.

2. Clean the Rim

• Wipe the rim bed thoroughly to remove old sealant
• Inspect the tubeless tape for damage and replace if necessary
• Ensure the valve is secured properly with its locking nut

3. Mount the New Tire

• Mount one bead of the tire onto the rim
• For the second bead, leave about 6 inches unmounted near the valve

4. Add Sealant

There are two methods for adding sealant:

Method 1 (Valve Core Method):

• Remove the valve core using a valve core tool
• Inject 4-6oz of sealant through the valve using a sealant injector or syringe
• Reinstall the valve core

Method 2 (Pour-in Method):

• Pour 4-6oz of sealant directly into the tire through the unmounted section
• Finish mounting the tire completely

5. Inflate and Seat the Tire

• Inflate rapidly using an air compressor or high-volume pump
• You may need to reach 25-30 PSI initially to get the beads to seat
• Once seated, reduce to your desired riding pressure
• Shake and rotate the wheel to distribute sealant

If the bead doesn't seat to the rim, it may help to use a tire lever to slide the tire bead to the edge of the rim. Overinflating can also help seat tough beads, but only do this if necessary to avoid stressing the rim strip.

6. Check for Leaks

• Listen for air escaping and look for sealant bubbling out
• Some minor leaking is normal initially as the sealant does its job
• Spin and bounce the wheel to help the sealant cover potential leak points

7. Let it Set

• Ideally, let the newly mounted tubeless tire sit overnight before riding
• This allows the sealant to fully distribute and seal any small gaps

Riding with the Right Pressure

Finding the optimal tire pressure for your Tamobyke's fat tires is critical for performance, comfort, and durability:

Tubed Fat Tires:

• Typical range: 8-15 PSI
• Firmer terrain (pavement, hard-packed trails): 12-15 PSI
• Mixed terrain: 10-12 PSI
• Soft terrain (sand, snow): 8-10 PSI

Tubeless Fat Tires:

• Typical range: 5-12 PSI
• Firmer terrain: 10-12 PSI
• Mixed terrain: 7-10 PSI
• Soft terrain: 5-7 PSI

Remember that rider weight, cargo load, and personal preference all affect optimal pressure. Start in the middle of these ranges and adjust to find your sweet spot.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Difficult Tire Mounting

Problem: The last section of bead refuses to go over the rim edge.

Solutions:

• Ensure both beads are sitting in the center channel of the rim where it's deepest
• Squeeze opposite sides of the tire toward the center to create slack
• Use plastic tire levers instead of metal to avoid damaging tubeless rim tape
• Apply soapy water to lubricate the bead and help it slip over the rim edge

Tubeless Tire Won't Seal

Problem: Air leaks out despite adding sealant.

Solutions:

• Add more sealant (an additional 2oz may be needed)
• Ensure the rim tape covers all spoke holes completely
• Check for cuts or tears in the tire that may be too large for sealant to bridge
• Try a "shake and rotate" technique to distribute sealant to problem areas
• Inflate beyond normal pressure temporarily to help seat the beads fully

Tire Bulging or Uneven Seating

Problem: The tire shows visible bulges or uneven seating.

Solutions:

• Deflate completely and apply soapy water to the bead area to help it slip into place
• Overinflate temporarily (25-30 PSI) to force the bead to snap into place
• Check that the rim strip isn't bunched up or uneven
• Ensure the tire is properly centered on the rim

When to Consider Professional Help

While most fat tire changes can be handled at home, consider seeking professional assistance in these situations:

• Your tire has a complex tubeless setup with special rim tape or valves
• You've made multiple attempts without success
• Your Tamobyke has a sophisticated electric hub motor that's difficult to disconnect
• The tire or rim appears damaged and may need replacement
• You lack the specialized tools (like an air compressor for tubeless setups)

Tamobyke's service centers can handle any fat tire installation or tubeless conversion if you prefer professional assistance.

Maintenance Tips for Extended Tire Life

Regular Inspection

• Check tire pressure before every ride
• Inspect tread for wear and embedded objects weekly
• Look for sidewall cracks or damage monthly

Tubeless Sealant Maintenance

• Refresh sealant every 2-3 months in hot climates, 4-6 months in moderate climates
• Check sealant by removing the valve core and inserting a small zip tie to see if liquid is present
• Listen for a sloshing sound when rotating the wheel as a quick check for sealant presence

Storage Considerations

• Store your Tamobyke with tires at full pressure to maintain shape
• Keep tires out of direct sunlight when stored long-term
• If storing for months, hang the bike to reduce flat spots on tires

The Tubeless Advantage for Tamobyke Riders

Many experienced fat bike riders consider tubeless setups essential, as they reduce rolling resistance, eliminate pinch flats, and provide superior feel at lower pressures. Tests show tubeless fat tires can reduce rolling resistance by nearly 4 watts at higher pressures (20 PSI) and almost 10 watts at the low pressures (6 PSI) typically used for off-road riding.

For Tamobyke owners looking to get the most from their e-bikes, tubeless conversion is worth considering. The additional setup complexity is offset by improved performance, comfort, and reduced maintenance in the long run.

Check out our detailed guide to tubeless conversion if you're interested in upgrading your Tamobyke.

Conclusion: Mastering Fat Tire Maintenance

Changing fat tires on your Tamobyke might seem daunting at first, but with practice, it becomes a straightforward maintenance task that empowers you to keep riding no matter what challenges you encounter on the trail. The key is having the right tools, following a methodical process, and being patient, especially when working with the stiff beads of fat tires.

Whether you stick with tubes for simplicity or upgrade to tubeless for performance, properly maintained tires are crucial to getting the most from your Tamobyke experience. Remember that our customer support team is always available to answer questions and provide guidance on any aspect of tire maintenance.

For more information on bicycle tire technology and maintenance, visit the Wikipedia page on bicycle tires or check out Park Tool's comprehensive guide to tire repair.